Sunday, June 24, 2007

Kibbutzing around

I spent the past weekend on the kibbutz where my cousins Naomit and Rami live. I've heard a bit about kibbutz life, particularly from a philosophical standpoint, but had never experienced the realities of daily. (I still haven't really but at least now have a sense for what it looks like on the weekend.)

Kibbutz life is pleasant, simple, easy, and straightforward. People have nice (though hardly extravagant) places to live, good, fresh food to eat, a comfortable, low-stress, pastoral lifestyle, and a friendly, close-knit community to rely upon. The community in particular is really central to kibbutz life, as all residents work together, live together, eat together, celebrate together, and share all their property. Except for that very last bit, it reminded me of life in rural America.

Naomit and Rami were wonderful hosts. They gave me my own room, showed me around the kibbutz, took me to Rosh Hanikra, old Akko, and the kibbutz's farms, and sent me home with a large bag of corn that Rami and I picked from the stalk earlier today. Their English is better than they let on, but I was relieved to find in Rami an Israeli whose English was worse than my Hebrew.

My bottom line impression is this: If you're a kid, or an adult who highly values community to the extent that you prefer sharing property to individual ownership, a kibbutz may well offer an ideal lifestyle option for you. If, on the other hand, you think that a place like Harvard Business School would be a fun place to spend two years, you probably won't appreciate everything a kibbutz has to offer. 'Nuff said?

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Thursday, June 21, 2007

lost in translation / לוסט עין טראנסלאישון

After spending some time getting acclimated to Israel and the VC community, I have some real projects to work on, which is why I'm posting now. Clearly, getting things done requires having something else on which to procrastinate.

I've been in Israel two weeks, officially the longest amount of time I've spent in one place outside of the U.S. I don't know the language; this becomes rapidly evident during any conversation lasting more than 15 seconds. My Hebrew is functional enough to tell the rare specimen -- an Israeli who truly speaks no English, or is stubborn enough to pretend not to know any -- that I don't speak Hebrew. In all cases (except one), everyone's Hebrew is far superior to mine, and in many cases, their English is nearly on par with mine. (The one time, I asked a question in Hebrew and heard in response, to my delight, "I only speak English and Russian.")

My experiences have been very diverse already. I've attended a wedding, gone to the beach, sat in the 10th row at a Shlomo Artzi concert, and watched a soccer game between Real Madrid and a mixed Israeli-Palestinian "Peace Team". (To accurately complete the metaphor, Peace lost 8-0.)

As a result of my extensive (two-week) tenure here, I feel well-qualified to offer my expert opinion that life here is not half as stressful as Israelis seem to think. (They also think living in the States is a panacea for life's troubles. The grass is always greener...) Here are some other things I don't like about Israelis:
  • Littering. Israelis like to talk about how beautiful the country is, and they're absolutely, 100% right. So why the hell doesn't anyone seem to have a problem with throwing their cigarette butts, glass bottles, and gum wrappers on the ground?
  • Smoking. I guess the U.S. is the sole exception in the world, but to anyone with policy-making ability who's listening, trust me: the smoking ban in the States makes it much more likely that I will go out to a bar or restaurant and spend more time and money there. Smoking is costly, unhealthy, and is a fundamental violation of non-smokers' rights to life.
  • Religious fundamentalism. Israel is a Jewish state, and that seems to attract the looniest right-wing radicals around. While they seem to spend most of their time in Jerusalem, they exert significant influence on the government and are an embarrassment to an otherwise rational, moderate society.
  • Racism. This one will surely be disputed, but many Israelis rival the most avid anti-semites in their closed-minded cross-cultural perceptions and opinions. Dark skin is associated with inferiority -- even among Jews -- and anyone darker than ivory is labeled "black," often pejoratively. When I mentioned to one Israeli that my baby sister attends school in Georgia, she remarked, absent any other context, that "there are many negroes there." Additionally, resentment toward Arabs is insidious and prevalent. I don't imagine the situation is comparable to the sort of formalized hate training many Arabs receive, and I don't presume to fully understand the root causes that underly of this mindset. However, it seems clear to me that Israelis are a great people, and as such they must take the lead in breaking this cycle of mutual animosity and find ways to increase trust and common understanding.
Other than these issues, though, everything else about this place seems pretty damn amazing.

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Thursday, June 14, 2007

Office politics

Day three at Pitango started off with a noticeable sense of tension in the office, followed by excitement that culminated in elation. Shimon Peres -- my boss Chemi's father -- was elected President of Israel just after lunchtime.

The summer somehow just got even more exciting.

I've spent the past couple days learning about the Israeli startup and VC community. My "studies" have included panels and lectures at the Israel Venture Association Conference, a discussion on the competitive advantages of Israeli VCs moderated by HBS prof Paul Gompers, and a myriad of Q&A sessions between founders and VCs, many of which were led by Israeli entrepreneurial powerhouse Yossi Vardi. (Did I mention I love my job?) There is little question that the entrepreneurial environment in Israel is thriving, and that Israeli VC's are uniquely positioned to capture much of the upside.

But while there are plenty of smart, hard-working entrepreneurs bringing new opportunities to the fore, they tend to have much more technical than management know-how. I think the VCs here know that portfolio companies will push for a quick exit over sustained risk and growth, and their frustration is palpable. Hopefully, big successes like Teva, Iscar, and CheckPoint are catalyzing a gradual shift in the entrepreneurial mindset. Israeli VCs bear just as much responsibility for affecting this change as anyone else -- hopefully they acknowledge that reality themselves.

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Monday, June 11, 2007

Promising land

Today is my first day in Israel, and I'm as excited as a terrier at a postal convention. For the first time in my life, I arrived at the office on my first day before anyone else had shown up. This is a clearly great omen of things to come.

Yehudit met me at the airport last night, and we chatted while Yuval and Jacob battled pkak (a traffic jam) on their way back from Jerusalem. Yuval graciously put me up for the night, but I'll need to find another place to stay for the rest of the month (despite his exhortations to the contrary), as I'd certainly be cramping his style otherwise.

I've had to reprogram my brain for each country's exchange rate (clearly, I comprehend the value of dollars best), but sometimes this effort fails me. For example, I accidentally withdrew $600 thinking it was $60 in Taiwan. However, I'm hopeful that Israel will be immediately intuitive -- dividing everything by four shouldn't be too tough.

My trek to the office is pretty reasonable. I walk five blocks to the bus stop and wait 20 minutes for the bus to arrive (which can doubtless be shaved to 5). After about half an hour, the bus drops me three blocks from the office. The ride to the office is beautiful and reminds me of California.

I will look into taking Hebrew classes twice weekly in the evenings. Other than that, I'm excited to start my job and learn the lay of the land.

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Friday, June 08, 2007

Rost in Transration

Taipei's climate is essentially tropical, at least now, and it appears to be typhoon season. It is expected to rain all day every day during the duration of my stay here. Feels like N'awlins, except wetter and a bit cooler.

On a side note, my lack of access to mobile Internet on my phone is inconvenient, but to my great surprise, I am somehow managing to survive without it.

Linda's folks took us out to an excellent Peking duck dinner the evening of our arrival, and bought us subway passes for the weekend before sending us off to the Taipei night market. The market is fun -- lots of inexpensive (cheap?) shoes, jewelry, clothes, and foods, though the occasional whiff of "stinky tofu" is enough to stave off the most adventuresome gastronomist. After a couple hours of walking around, we head home and hit the hay.

We must've made a bad impression on Linda's parents, though. First thing Friday morning, they put us on a train at 7:15am that, I'm told after the train departs the station, will take us to a tour three hours outside of Taipei.

Upon arriving after a long, uneventful ride, during which we pass the time by sleeping and playing hold 'em poker on my Treo, we are herded onto a small shuttle bus. It is clear that the little English the tour guide does speak is heavily obscured by his extraordinarily thick accent. We know when he's said something funny, because he routinely laughs at his own jokes. Our two resident Chinese speakers, Linda and Yen Yen, know Chinese at a five-year-old's level, but scarcely more than enough to identify when our guide thinks something or another is special.

The countryside is beautiful -- mountainous and verdant, in a Gorillas in the Mist sort of way. This place looks like every Vietnam movie I've ever seen. It is during this tour that I most acutely perceive the limitations of my pathetic camera phone, which clearly fails to accurately capture the look of the area, much less do it justice.

We make our way into Taroko National Park, home to some of the world's most impressive gorges. The views are breathtaking, and the drive along the cliffside is absolutely terrifying. Our bus cannonballs down the narrow path through a consistent light rain, closely shaving the edge of the sheer drop. In true analytical business student form, we estimate our likelihood of dying at 15%, and hope for a fall that does us in quickly, rather than leaving us at the bottom of the ravine with collapsed lungs, gasping for air. But enough morbidity for now.

After some time, we are let out to take a ten minute hike across a road no longer used by We walk along signs that say, "Beware of falling rocks. Do not loiter," and eventually make our way across the path, where the bus is waiting for us, ready to deliver several subsequent myocardial infarctions to us as it takes us to a cafe. There, we enjoy a delightful kettle of pomelo and honey tea warmed by a tealight (so THAT'S why they're called tealights!).

The rest of the trip proceeds in similar form. Before taking the return train to Taipei, we sample all sorts of goodies from a local mochi bakery and 7-Eleven. (7-Eleven is quite prevalent in Taiwan, and they carry plenty of local flavor as well.) Linda's parents pick us up from the train station when we arrive and treat us to an excellent seafood dinner and shaved ice for desert. In the end, the trip was a welcome reprieve from the daily grind of city tourism I've experienced over the past two weeks. I know I'll sleep well tonight.

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Saturday, June 02, 2007

Heart and Seoul

My first reaction after stepping off the plane and peering out a window: thank god people are driving on the right side of the road again! Japan left me feeling genuinely terrified several times that we were turning into oncoming traffic.

On a side note, one welcome surprise upon touching down at Incheon (the city in which Seoul's main airport is located) is that my Sprint phone gets service here! While calls are probably ungodly expensive, at least my phone clock will be kept in sync with local time, and I'll have a good backup in case of an emergency. (It turns out this is all thanks to my dad's efforts to identify the best service options from Sprint.)

In any case, my first experience in Korea, while not comparable to the morning's excitement (more on that later), was a frustrating one. As I rounded the corner into Immigration, I anticipated a smooth, well-oiled operation like the one I had experienced in Japan. But despite my stupid American tendency to stereotype all Asian cultures as identical, the differences between Japan and Korea were almost immediately evident. I was greeted by a long, slow line at immigration with no English speakers to be found. After ten minutes, the line moved forward only because a new one had opened and Japanese travelers were wise enough to escape the one I stood in to fill the other, desperate to believe that nothing could be less efficient than their present situation.

They were right. Another ten minutes later, their line has processed six people, while mine has shortened only thanks to a gradual but continuous exodus of weary travelers abandoning my queue for the clearly superior alternative. People who had been standing behind me were undoubtedly checking into their hotel rooms by now. Folks from other flights arriving had picked up on the trend, and soon, the other line was longer than mine. I started to doubt my own capacity to learn from past mistakes. Nevertheless, I held fast, hopelessly hopeful that other people in front of me would give up first. My strategy worked well, but the same person who must be declaring a nuclear warhead radio-controlled by Kim Jong Il himself was still standing in front of our much maligned customs official. (I can't say for certain that the other passengers were actually insulting this public servant, as nothing being said was in English, but the jeers and sarcastic tone that immediately preceded a line switch seem to confirm this theory.)

Eventually, the line began to move at a reasonable pace, and for a brief moment, I suspected I may get out of the airport before my scheduled flight to Taiwan departed a week later. Regrettably, the tourist two spots ahead of me was apparently trying to bring twenty tons of botulism into the country on behalf Bin Laden himself, and the waiting game resumed.

I finally made it to the counter, where my review required a grand total of 25 seconds. I suppose being American is good for something -- nobody suspects you of being a terrorist or trying to steal their jobs. (I might point out that this experience is far from universal. A large group of my compatriots, arriving several hours later, were processed with no notable delay.)

Just to underscore the egregiousness of the wait, though, when I finally emerged from customs, my flight was no longer listed on the baggage claim sign, as all other passengers had already retrieved their luggage.

The "limousine bus" to the hotel was a much better experience. Though not nearly as organized and orderly as its Japanese counterpart, KAL Limo Service was timely, comfortable, and served water to passengers in something like the single-serve applesauce containers found in the States.

The only real gripe I have is not with the bus service but rather with the legion of slimy let's-make-a-deal cabbies in the area who were much more expensive and clearly targeting what they thought was a rich white American. They lost interest as soon as I told them I was a student. In any case, I'd better hold onto my wallet!

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Friday, June 01, 2007

Domo arigato gozaimas

I started writing this entry on the flight from Osaka, Japan to Seoul, Korea. I was genuinely sad to leave Japan. Though I'm sure it will never be my home (even if I were to live there), I have developed a great deal of respect and affection for the Japanese people and their culture. I found my thoughts repeatedly returning to the culture as the source of many of the country's strengths. It is only at a superficial level that I can understand the culture, and even more so at which I can communicate what I learned... but lack of ability never discouraged me in the past, so why should it now?

A sense of respect not only permeates the local population, but also extends to foreign cultures as well, as evidenced by the Japanese willingness to incorporate the best parts of other societies into their own. Western influences are everywhere in Japan, from the popularity of baseball to the dominance of the auto industry.

Of course, Japanese have managed to leave the worst parts of Western culture behind. As an example, rather than view religion as divisive, Japanese people are very tolerant of other faiths. One of our several tour guides was raised Buddhist but went to a Catholic prep school and baptized her children in a Buddhist temple. This was a welcome surprise for this Westerner whose countrymen often try to reaffirm the value of their culture by dismissing others as inferior.

Though Japan is a democracy in very much the same sense as the United States (we did write their Constitution, after all), the incessant individualism that plagues our population is replaced with an almost socialist ethic of collaboration and shared responsibility. As a trivial example, when a taxi driver taking me and my friend Janita to a dinner party in Tokyo momentarily lost his way, he immediately stopped the meter until he resumed progress. I can't imagine an American cabbie doing the same thing; their philosophy can be summed up as something like, "If I'm driving with someone in the back, they're paying for it." Another illustration of the Japanese social ethic is a complete lack of jaywalking, as if everyone in society has implicitly understood that following certain rules helps society to function more efficiently.

Also, one might expect that the complete lack of tipping (I didn't pay a single gratuity during the entirety of my visit) would encourage indolence and low quality service. In fact, though, the level of service I received in Japan was as high as anywhere I've ever been.

The value placed on respect is abundantly evident. Restaurant and store patrons are always welcomed upon arrival and thanked upon departure. Japanese really do bow profusely. They welcome foreigners, or gaijin, as guests in their country. The stark difference in attitudes was underscored when Rei, one of the trip organizers and a friend from HBS, related her reaction to her initial interactions with thick-skinned New Englanders: "What did I do to offend them?"

Granted, unlike in the States, where anyone might be a local, foreigners are more easily identified in Japan. But I believe that cultural factors, rather than distinct physical appearance, account for most of the difference in the way tourists are treated.

Though I will always be a gaijin, I am fascinated by Japan's culture, which has somehow produced the sort of society I'd want to live in, successfully commingling a number of seemingly conflicting social ideals. The Japanese culture has evolved over the past half century, borrowing many Western philosophies, methods, and ideals. This is a topic I could spend hours writing about, and I'm sure I'll revisit it in future postings. At a high level, though, visiting Japan makes one thing acutely clear: we have quite a bit to learn from their way of life.

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Welcome to the blogosphere

This marks the first entry in what I hope will be a regularly updated record of my thoughts and life experiences. Blogs have been around for quite some time now, and now that I've been a lowly student for nearly a year, it's high time that I get on the bandwagon. This blog is mostly here to enable members of my family to live vicariously through me -- unfortunately for them -- though perhaps its purpose will evolve over time. In any case, your thoughts and questions are always very welcome, so please feel free to comment on postings as you like.

I flew to Seoul today, having spent the past week in Japan. I wish I'd been able to write my thoughts as the trip progressed, but it took me a while to set up the blog the way I wanted, and I didn't really have sufficient time to collect and record my thoughts. Anyhow, better late than never, right?

As you may have surmised, I still haven't digested everything I saw and learned in Japan. That said, I'll start jotting down thoughts in a somewhat organized fashion. More to come.

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